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Saloon Girls [19 Oct 2007|04:29pm]

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This Halloween, myself, a friend, and our boyfriends are going to a big Halloween party and we're dressing up as Saloon Girls and Cowboys. I was excited to make my costume and my friend asked if I would make hers as well. The two costumes will look a lot alike, but with detail differences. The outfits will have three main parts: a chemise, a corset, and a skirt. The chemises and corsets will be pretty period accurate, but the skirts... not so much.

what I've done and what needs to be done under the cutCollapse )

x-posted to victorian_wear & dressdiaries
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Halloween 2007, The Year of the Old West [28 Sep 2007|08:51pm]

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Well, we've finally decided on Halloween costumes for the big party up at Deadwood. The guys are going to be Cowboys and the girls are going to be saloon girls. To my surprise, Carly's all gung-ho about going all out, so for the two of us I'm making saloon skirts, a corset for Carly (this is the one that really supprised me), re-making another corset for myself, and black historical shifts.



I've got one of the skirts under way already. This will probably be the piece that's most 'historically incorrect'. It's knee-length black satin that's got a 1880's-esk gather to it (i.e. none in the front, a ton in the back). Then it will have a layer of similarly gathered tule underneath. I may need to beef up the ammount of tule to get the poof I'm going for. Might also shorten it some as this is an adult Halloween party.

I'll post progress photos soon.
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C&C 1901 Mock-Up [09 Sep 2007|07:30pm]

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A couple days ago, I made a post in corsetmakers, wondering if anyone had ideas on a good pattern source for a corset like this. I got a couple ideas, and it will vaguely turn out similar to the reference. I'm going with the pattern on page 84 of Corsets and Crinoline. It needs to be modified in length, but I really like the lines of this corset.

images + progress so farCollapse )
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To Do List [17 May 2007|02:52pm]

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All projects that are in progress. I really should finish them before starting on other things but...

*Hem black broadcloth bandana
*Complete boning, binding, and eyelets on 18th century stays
*Boning and binding of 1860's blue corset
*Fix last knot, sandwich, baste, quilt, and bind celtic knot quilt
*Quilt and bind denim quilt
*Sew, sandwich, baste, quilt, and bind Robert's quilt before his birthday!!!
*Do something with the bandana quilt top I made
*Sew, sandwich, baste, quilt, and bind Joe's quilt
*Finish the WWII nurse costume I started back in 2001
*Bone and finish spanish farthingale

probably are other things that I can't think of...
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[14 Dec 2006|12:06am]

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About three weeks ago, I finally got a copy of The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcom-Davies. I've been wanting to re-do my black velvet fantasy-esk (McCalls attempt at Rennisance...) rennisance gown for quite a while because it has a lot of sentimental value to me, but really isn't period appropriate, which is something I'm more concerned with now.

In this post, I was trying to think of ways in which I can alter it, but after giving it some thought, I felt like I was going to just butcher it unless I had a serious plan laid out.

The Tudor Tailor has a lovely pattern for a French Gown that I think I can use a lot of the exsisting gown to make. My biggest concern is a bodice that can be made from the sculpted velvet bodice that I made before. Mostly because that velvet was a Christmas present from my mom and it's really lovely even if it isn't very period. However, before I can even start on the gown, there are sooooo many foundation pieces that need to be done before I can take proper measurements.

So, the big to-do list:
*Smock
(3 3/4 yards of white linen)
blackwork on sleeve?
-some updated thoughts on this. After reading through some of the initial information of this book, I started getting some new ideas. what about using gold thread (to mimic gold or silver tinsel work) in a very simple pattern like this:
--->--->--->--->---
My drawing looks prettier than this, but oh well. This work would go around the neck like of the smock and then also @ the sleeve cuffs. Also, several of the paintings of the 1530's and 1540's look like there's almost small knots of tinsel around the neck like of the smock. However, what it reminds me of, is if you were to use seed beads around the neckline, making them right in the fold so they'd stand up like that, so another thought. Now, I don't want to go toooo over the top, but they mentioned bobbin lace showing up in 1947, so cuffs of lace are a possibility as well.

*Spanish Farthingale
(2 1/2 yards of canvas)
(13 1/2 yards of boning)
(13 1/2 yards 1" wide ribbon or tape for casings)
(3 yards of 1 1/2" wide ribbon or tape for hem)
(2 yards of twill tape for ties)
I found this beautiful 54" blue and red stripe duck at Walmart for $2.98 a yard, and it's 100% cotton. It would look lovely with red or blue velvet casings like in the exaple in Tudor Tailor.

*Petticoat
(3 1/2 yards of calico)
(3 1/2 yards of top fabric)
(3 1/2 yards of lining)
Shouldn't need to worry about wadding since I plan on using the spanish farthingale. Also, a length of leather cord for lacing, jump rings to work the eyelets, and some red silk thread (also for eyelets)? Red is supposed to be the common petticoat color, so maybe a nice 100% cotton for the top fabric? Muslin for lining, and the calico.
Scratch that, I think I'll use the blue and gold stripe thing that mom has. It's only 2 1/2 yards, but she also has some navy cotton that will match it well, so I think I'll supliment that in to make it work. What I'll probably do, is I'll cut about the bottom 2/3 of the skirt in the stripe, and the top 1/3 plus the suspenders out of the navy cotton.To make the back pannel of the skirt wide enough, I'm going to have to add in a pannel of stripe because at my size, the back pannel exceeds 45" in width. I think I'll face it in muslin as well as line it in muslin, depending on how much muslin I've got left. It's not really period correct, but it's underskirts, and I want to make something that I'll be having fun at.

*Kirtle (untrained)
(4 1/2 yards of calico)
(4 1/2 yards of lining)
(4 1/2 yards of top fabric)
(1 3/4 yards of canvas)
(8 1/2 yards of boning) zip ties except center front should be a metal bone
(1 yard of piping cord)
I'll be using my white brocade pannel for the front pannel of the kirtle, but I know for a fact that I don't have enough for the bottom 1/3 of the back pannels and the straps and top accent of the kirtle bodies. Maybe white duponi silk or else try to track down more of that fabric. The rest of the top fabric I'll probably do in simple black cotton, maybe quilters cotton so it's nice and heavy. In all reality, the white brocade pannel might not even be big enough, I'll have to check it's size relative to yardage in TTT. Edt: The brocade is wide enough to fit it as it is, but not if I size it up. I think what I'll end up doing is size up the back 2 pannels and maybe make the pleats in the front pannel smaller to accomidate there.

*French Gown
(10 yards of calico)
(10 yards of top fabric)
(8 3/4 yards of lining)
(12 in of canvas)
(2 yards of wadding)
(1 1/4 yards of contrast for sleeve turnbacks)
Skirt and sleeves will be in plain black velvet. I've got two full pannels of black velvet that are ~47" wide. Two more are ~23" wide. The skirt will take 6 pannels at least 45" wide, so I'll use the two 47's in it, and then buy more. I think I can probably cut the sleeves out of the 23" pieces. I really don't want this gown to have a train, so I'll have to figure out how to take that off. I think that between the bodice and sleeves I'll have enough of the sculpted black velvet to do the new bodice. It will just take me finally biting the bullit and ripping it out so I can lay pattern pieces on it. I'm relatively confident. They've got similar shapes and the sleeves should help with the front pannel, even if I have to piece it. Horray! No more zipper!
I really wanted to do the sleeve turnbacks in the same faux fur that I made the two bear hats out of. It's this nice, long, white fur with black tips. Unfortunately, Walmart in Rapid doesn't carry it. Maybe Spearfish? I have no idea when I would get a chance to get up there, and the fabric department might be shut down soon. Neither Hobby Lobby or Fabric Warehouse have any good furs. Well, I take that back, Fabric Warehouse had a decent one for $9.99, but it was black and kind of short. I don't want to go overboard on black. Hancock might have something, but I have a feeling I might be buying something online.
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[16 Oct 2006|01:37pm]

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When I came back to school for my final semester before graduating, I purposly left my sewing machine at my parent's house because I decided that I wouldn't have the time or money to be working on costume pieces. I also tried to pack light and therefore brought my fantasy pirate costume because it folded down the smallest.

Originaly, this costume consisted of black, broadcloth, britches from Simplicity 4914, a yellow and burgandy floral print poly satin bodice from Simplicity 5582, a white organza chemise from McCalls 2242, black fishnets, and my royal blue muskateer hat from my Intro. to Costuming final. All in all, kind of a hodge-podge.
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[11 Oct 2006|08:54pm]

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[ mood | cold ]

Helpful Books:

Kimono Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
ISBN#: 0-300-05639-7

Adaptable Stage Costume For Women by Elizabeth Russell
ISBN#: 85343 530 8

Costume Close-Up Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750-1790 by Linda Baumgarten and John Watson with Florine Carr
ISBN#: 0-87935-188-8

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes Garments, Trims, and Accessories from Ancient Egypt to 1915 by Katherine Strand Holkeboer
ISBN#: 0-13-654278-6

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Wish List [07 Oct 2006|01:26am]

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Ghost In The Shell: Stand Alone Complex
Kusanagi Motoko - Episode 37

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Good's Frock Coat

Fullmetal Alchemist
Amestris Military Uniform
Young!Pinaco Rockbell
Ed's Flamel Coat

D.Gray-Man
Allen's New Uniform - Chapter 86
Excorsist Uniform Coat

Farscape
John's Leather Jacket - Season 4

Hellsing
Integra Hellsing

Bleach
Shunsui Kyōraku
Hitsugaya
Soifon

Sleepy Hallow
Katrina Anne Van Tassel's Black & White Striped Dress

The Man In The Iron Mask
Black Muskateer Uniform

Back To The Future
Marty McFly's Red 50's Jacket

Maiko kimono and obi
Late 16th Century Surcoat
1750-1810 wool Cloak


Man, I just realized that there are a lot of jackets on this list. In progress...
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Prisoner of Azkaban Robes [02 Oct 2006|11:09pm]

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[ mood | tired ]

moved from my rarely used website because I've decided I hate geocity.
from my origional posting: http://www.geocities.com/myfortunatestars/poarobes.html



tutorialCollapse )
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1883(possibly) pre-planning [23 Apr 2006|09:26pm]

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Well, last summer I bought this polonaise pattern from Buckaroo Bobbins and I've been itching to get started on it. However, due to the lack of proper undergarments, It's been put on a back burner. Now, I've got even more incentive to get it finished, because Meg's listed a train robbery in the middle of July, which would be the perfect time for me to wear it.

I've been poking around, and doing some research. Through sca, I found a link to a woman's dress diary for an 1875 Walking Dress. She mentions that she decided on the dress, and it was in fashion 100 years to the month of when she was born. I kind of warmed to that idea and low and behold, she has scans from a 1883 edition of Peterson's Magazine.
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