About three weeks ago, I finally got a copy of The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcom-Davies. I've been wanting to re-do my black velvet fantasy-esk (McCalls attempt at Rennisance...) rennisance gown for quite a while because it has a lot of sentimental value to me, but really isn't period appropriate, which is something I'm more concerned with now.
In this post, I was trying to think of ways in which I can alter it, but after giving it some thought, I felt like I was going to just butcher it unless I had a serious plan laid out.
The Tudor Tailor has a lovely pattern for a French Gown that I think I can use a lot of the exsisting gown to make. My biggest concern is a bodice that can be made from the sculpted velvet bodice that I made before. Mostly because that velvet was a Christmas present from my mom and it's really lovely even if it isn't very period. However, before I can even start on the gown, there are sooooo many foundation pieces that need to be done before I can take proper measurements.
So, the big to-do list:
(3 3/4 yards of white linen)
blackwork on sleeve?
-some updated thoughts on this. After reading through some of the initial information of this book, I started getting some new ideas. what about using gold thread (to mimic gold or silver tinsel work) in a very simple pattern like this:
My drawing looks prettier than this, but oh well. This work would go around the neck like of the smock and then also @ the sleeve cuffs. Also, several of the paintings of the 1530's and 1540's look like there's almost small knots of tinsel around the neck like of the smock. However, what it reminds me of, is if you were to use seed beads around the neckline, making them right in the fold so they'd stand up like that, so another thought. Now, I don't want to go toooo over the top, but they mentioned bobbin lace showing up in 1947, so cuffs of lace are a possibility as well.
(2 1/2 yards of canvas)
(13 1/2 yards of boning)
(13 1/2 yards 1" wide ribbon or tape for casings)
(3 yards of 1 1/2" wide ribbon or tape for hem)
(2 yards of twill tape for ties)
I found this beautiful 54" blue and red stripe duck at Walmart for $2.98 a yard, and it's 100% cotton. It would look lovely with red or blue velvet casings like in the exaple in Tudor Tailor.
(3 1/2 yards of calico)
(3 1/2 yards of top fabric)
(3 1/2 yards of lining)
Shouldn't need to worry about wadding since I plan on using the spanish farthingale. Also, a length of leather cord for lacing, jump rings to work the eyelets, and some red silk thread (also for eyelets)? Red is supposed to be the common petticoat color, so maybe a nice 100% cotton for the top fabric? Muslin for lining, and the calico.
Scratch that, I think I'll use the blue and gold stripe thing that mom has. It's only 2 1/2 yards, but she also has some navy cotton that will match it well, so I think I'll supliment that in to make it work. What I'll probably do, is I'll cut about the bottom 2/3 of the skirt in the stripe, and the top 1/3 plus the suspenders out of the navy cotton.To make the back pannel of the skirt wide enough, I'm going to have to add in a pannel of stripe because at my size, the back pannel exceeds 45" in width. I think I'll face it in muslin as well as line it in muslin, depending on how much muslin I've got left. It's not really period correct, but it's underskirts, and I want to make something that I'll be having fun at.
(4 1/2 yards of calico)
(4 1/2 yards of lining)
(4 1/2 yards of top fabric)
(1 3/4 yards of canvas)
(8 1/2 yards of boning) zip ties except center front should be a metal bone
(1 yard of piping cord)
I'll be using my white brocade pannel for the front pannel of the kirtle, but I know for a fact that I don't have enough for the bottom 1/3 of the back pannels and the straps and top accent of the kirtle bodies. Maybe white duponi silk or else try to track down more of that fabric. The rest of the top fabric I'll probably do in simple black cotton, maybe quilters cotton so it's nice and heavy. In all reality, the white brocade pannel might not even be big enough, I'll have to check it's size relative to yardage in TTT. Edt: The brocade is wide enough to fit it as it is, but not if I size it up. I think what I'll end up doing is size up the back 2 pannels and maybe make the pleats in the front pannel smaller to accomidate there.
(10 yards of calico)
(10 yards of top fabric)
(8 3/4 yards of lining)
(12 in of canvas)
(2 yards of wadding)
(1 1/4 yards of contrast for sleeve turnbacks)
Skirt and sleeves will be in plain black velvet. I've got two full pannels of black velvet that are ~47" wide. Two more are ~23" wide. The skirt will take 6 pannels at least 45" wide, so I'll use the two 47's in it, and then buy more. I think I can probably cut the sleeves out of the 23" pieces. I really don't want this gown to have a train, so I'll have to figure out how to take that off. I think that between the bodice and sleeves I'll have enough of the sculpted black velvet to do the new bodice. It will just take me finally biting the bullit and ripping it out so I can lay pattern pieces on it. I'm relatively confident. They've got similar shapes and the sleeves should help with the front pannel, even if I have to piece it. Horray! No more zipper!
I really wanted to do the sleeve turnbacks in the same faux fur that I made the two bear hats out of. It's this nice, long, white fur with black tips. Unfortunately, Walmart in Rapid doesn't carry it. Maybe Spearfish? I have no idea when I would get a chance to get up there, and the fabric department might be shut down soon. Neither Hobby Lobby or Fabric Warehouse have any good furs. Well, I take that back, Fabric Warehouse had a decent one for $9.99, but it was black and kind of short. I don't want to go overboard on black. Hancock might have something, but I have a feeling I might be buying something online.